32hours seems a long time to spend confined to a hard sleeper with 5 engineers, but for some reason it went surprisingly quickly. Despite the fact that over the entire trip I only moved about 100m (and that was only to get some water at a station) there was always something going on, meals being served or ordered, fascinated conversations about Ohms law and the properties of Aluminium and lessons in Hindi. I had the lower berth and on the top was an English electrical engineer, Steve,while on the other side of the compartment was another electrical engineer and his friend the metallurgical engineer and throughout the trip their friend the civil engineer, technical engineer and mechanical engineer joined in on all the fun.
At around 5am on the 13 we arrived in Varanasi Junction Train Station and I was greeted on the platform by a very tired man who held out a scrap of paper with "Bob BABIDOV" scribbled on it and "The Alka Hotel" beneath. It wasn't the smartly dressed hotel employee holding a large cardboard sign with MY name but at 5am it was good enough.
After a chilly rickshaw ride though the main streets of Varanasi before being left at the barriers that stop vehicles other than bike from entering the maze of ridiculously, impossibly, frustrating streets that are the old city of Varanasi.
Steve and I had arranged to meet for breakfast later that morning and together with another tourist we met onboard the train, Anja from St Petersburg, we enjoyed our first continental meal in 2 days, poached eggs on brown toast with hash browns and coffee.
Finally feeling satisfied we headed away from the main roads and head first into the labyrinth towards the mighty Ganges River.
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
Reflections
After being back in Melbourne (good old Melbourne) for almost 2 months it is finally time to publish the forgotten blog, written in my final hours in India and as yet unseen by anyone but you, yes you right now perhaps are the very first living soul to read the last thoughts I had in India...
Enjoy.
Rickshaw rides that make a rollercoaster or dodgem cars obsolete
The laidback attitude to everything, it is a feature of every aspect of Indian society, from the cabbies, waiters, and police. Call it shanti, call it apathy, call it plain laziness, but without it it just wouldn't be India
The ability to have a conversation with a person where contradictions are to be expected and the word 'no' will never be used
Never getting used to people burping in public, at least when they piss in public they face away (most of the time)
Meeting up and traveling around with a great bunch of Israelis and in the process getting a completely different and amazing perspective of my father (bizarre).
Seeing city buses that stop for no one, literally! You just jump on and off while it slows down (a little).
Getting a great breakfast of eggs, chapatti and soda of under 50c
Learning to have enough guts to rock up in a new town and find a room without a reservation even it means leaving all your earthly possessions with some rickshaw driver you just met.
Observing the complete inability for Indians to keep in line/their obsession with pushing in
The funny head shake that looks like NO, but isn't. It confused me for the first month and still tricks me sometimes.
The way India can always out do the west. They don't have supermarkets here, they have the HyperMarkets. They can even make the simplest of foods exciting and fun, you don't get a roll at a bakery in Bangalore, you go to BreadWorld. Think of the possibilities.
Well I hope you have all enjoyed my rants, and tales from a fascinating country. One that seems to grow on you long after you leave, or is it that things are actually growing IN you long after you leave.
Please email me if you would like some more info on anything I've written about, I'd love to be of assistance.
Enjoy.
Rickshaw rides that make a rollercoaster or dodgem cars obsolete
The laidback attitude to everything, it is a feature of every aspect of Indian society, from the cabbies, waiters, and police. Call it shanti, call it apathy, call it plain laziness, but without it it just wouldn't be India
The ability to have a conversation with a person where contradictions are to be expected and the word 'no' will never be used
Never getting used to people burping in public, at least when they piss in public they face away (most of the time)
Meeting up and traveling around with a great bunch of Israelis and in the process getting a completely different and amazing perspective of my father (bizarre).
Seeing city buses that stop for no one, literally! You just jump on and off while it slows down (a little).
Getting a great breakfast of eggs, chapatti and soda of under 50c
Learning to have enough guts to rock up in a new town and find a room without a reservation even it means leaving all your earthly possessions with some rickshaw driver you just met.
Observing the complete inability for Indians to keep in line/their obsession with pushing in
The funny head shake that looks like NO, but isn't. It confused me for the first month and still tricks me sometimes.
The way India can always out do the west. They don't have supermarkets here, they have the HyperMarkets. They can even make the simplest of foods exciting and fun, you don't get a roll at a bakery in Bangalore, you go to BreadWorld. Think of the possibilities.
Well I hope you have all enjoyed my rants, and tales from a fascinating country. One that seems to grow on you long after you leave, or is it that things are actually growing IN you long after you leave.
Please email me if you would like some more info on anything I've written about, I'd love to be of assistance.
Saturday, February 11, 2006
Mumbai and the clock is ticking
Well as soon as I stepped of the train my task had only just begun. After trying a few more respectable lodgings which were all full at 9pm on a Friday evening I reluctantly went to a shall we say less respectable lodging, Maria. As they say in the classic "... and suddenly that name Will never be the same to me..." (West Side Story). Definitely the case for the tiny room, free from the distractions of windows and ventilation, allowing you to appreciate the mould and mildew and try to avoid turning the lights on. The bathroom wasn't so much a bathroom, rather a portion of the room that had been tiled and had a tap inserted into a wall. Toilets were strictly squat type and located down the hall.
But it didn't really matter, the manger brought me a hot bucket of water for my shower and I was soon fast asleep. The next morning I wasn't woken up by the bright Indian sun, rather screaming in the hallway was my sign to wake up and tackle this city in 1 day.
Heading to the docks first I had my first dry wretch of the day before hailing a cab and heading to the most famous of Mumbai's landmarks, India Gateway. It was here that I began to realize that the architectural legacy of this place was far greater than I could have expected. The city is filled with a fantastic collection of Victorian, Deco and Classical architecture many of the finer buildings are in remarkable condition and many more are currently under renovations. One such building is the High Court, an enormous edifice of blue stone and soaring pitched roofs. After sweet talking the police officers that guard the main entrance and promising them that I wouldn't take any photos I explored the four storeys of corridors, court rooms,. libraries and offices that make up this mammoth structure. The police officers had their revenge, inviting me to sit down with them on my exit. We chatted about the cricket, India, Australia, jobs, money and yes you guessed it, sex (again). What's with these guys. After about half an hour I said my frewells to the regiment , who by that stage also included their sergeant.
After getting my fill of architecture is was a quick ride to Mani Bhavan (also under renovation), the Mahatma Gandhi Museum. Although a little spartan in its displays it was still an enormously insightful and inspiring place. The story and legacy is Gandhi is explained simply and elegantly.
The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Haki Ali mosque, Mumbai's answer to St Kilda's pier restaurant. This mosque, similarly is located at the end of a long pier, however the strong smell of rotting fish and the horrible state of the building (together with the beggars that follow you up the concourse) spoil the atmosphere somewhat. I enjoyed a long walk along Chowpatty Beach, with its Art Deco flats and palm trees reminiscent of Miami and then headed back home to Colaba, the tourist centre, exhausted. Time to catch a train cross country. 31hrs to Varanasi.
But it didn't really matter, the manger brought me a hot bucket of water for my shower and I was soon fast asleep. The next morning I wasn't woken up by the bright Indian sun, rather screaming in the hallway was my sign to wake up and tackle this city in 1 day.
Heading to the docks first I had my first dry wretch of the day before hailing a cab and heading to the most famous of Mumbai's landmarks, India Gateway. It was here that I began to realize that the architectural legacy of this place was far greater than I could have expected. The city is filled with a fantastic collection of Victorian, Deco and Classical architecture many of the finer buildings are in remarkable condition and many more are currently under renovations. One such building is the High Court, an enormous edifice of blue stone and soaring pitched roofs. After sweet talking the police officers that guard the main entrance and promising them that I wouldn't take any photos I explored the four storeys of corridors, court rooms,. libraries and offices that make up this mammoth structure. The police officers had their revenge, inviting me to sit down with them on my exit. We chatted about the cricket, India, Australia, jobs, money and yes you guessed it, sex (again). What's with these guys. After about half an hour I said my frewells to the regiment , who by that stage also included their sergeant.
After getting my fill of architecture is was a quick ride to Mani Bhavan (also under renovation), the Mahatma Gandhi Museum. Although a little spartan in its displays it was still an enormously insightful and inspiring place. The story and legacy is Gandhi is explained simply and elegantly.
The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Haki Ali mosque, Mumbai's answer to St Kilda's pier restaurant. This mosque, similarly is located at the end of a long pier, however the strong smell of rotting fish and the horrible state of the building (together with the beggars that follow you up the concourse) spoil the atmosphere somewhat. I enjoyed a long walk along Chowpatty Beach, with its Art Deco flats and palm trees reminiscent of Miami and then headed back home to Colaba, the tourist centre, exhausted. Time to catch a train cross country. 31hrs to Varanasi.
Friday, February 10, 2006
You Mean I Finally Have to Take the Sleeper Bus?
Yes, it happened last night, as I folded myself into the upper "sleeper" (weird name, i don't know if anyone has actually ever slept in one) two thoughts crossed my mind, how will I get out and I hope that large spider on the window is dead.
After 5 more minutes I had an answer to at least 1 of the questions, NO!
For those unacquainted with the phenomenon of the sleeper bus its quite simple to explain:
1. Take a regular bus
2. Sell it and buy 3 really old and crappy ones
3. Rip all the chairs out
4. Put a platform midway through the main body and pad the floors with the cheapest nastiest foam you can find in the local dump
5. Remove any trace of suspension
6. Download photos of state-of-the-art Volvo buses from the web and use these for promotional material
7. Now you have a sleeper bus
Unlike many of the sleeper bus routes that crisscross Rajasthan the roads between Hospet (Hampi) and Goa are considerably better, even still the driver did hit the brakes hard several times through the night to avoid potholes and the swearing and abuse that would inevitably follow.
After a lazy 4hrs at Madgao Train Station I boarded my train to Mumbai, or is it Bombay, (nobody really seems to care) and now after 27hrs of travel I have arrived in this throbbing metropolis, its time for bed.
After 5 more minutes I had an answer to at least 1 of the questions, NO!
For those unacquainted with the phenomenon of the sleeper bus its quite simple to explain:
1. Take a regular bus
2. Sell it and buy 3 really old and crappy ones
3. Rip all the chairs out
4. Put a platform midway through the main body and pad the floors with the cheapest nastiest foam you can find in the local dump
5. Remove any trace of suspension
6. Download photos of state-of-the-art Volvo buses from the web and use these for promotional material
7. Now you have a sleeper bus
Unlike many of the sleeper bus routes that crisscross Rajasthan the roads between Hospet (Hampi) and Goa are considerably better, even still the driver did hit the brakes hard several times through the night to avoid potholes and the swearing and abuse that would inevitably follow.
After a lazy 4hrs at Madgao Train Station I boarded my train to Mumbai, or is it Bombay, (nobody really seems to care) and now after 27hrs of travel I have arrived in this throbbing metropolis, its time for bed.
I'd want to ride my bicycle Part III: You'd Think I Was Active or Something
For 4 days and 3 nights I've trekked and chilled out (mostly chilled out) among the boulders and banana trees that make up this remarkable landscape.
After my first lazy day of wandering around and getting my bearings of the small village and main bazaar it was time to do some more active travel.
Joining forces with a German backpacker Dorit, who I met on the train up from Bangalore we hired a couple of the usual crappy Indian bikes (gearless, brakeless and heavy) and headed up hill straight out of town in search of the ruins beyond.
Bike riding again, who would ever have conceived of such a thing (certainly not my PE teachers back at school). After a conquering the hills that flank the city we were soon cruising through rice, sugar cane and banana plantations. There neat rows interrupted by enormous smooth granite boulders, some as big as houses. After passing by a view Hindu temples and a Muslim cemetery which had 2 interesting mausoleums we headed towards the Royal Centre.
The Royal Centre has a brilliant concentration of ruins; watch towers, temples, fort walls...Our bikes proved to be a great mode of transport, despite the dirt roads, allowing for infinite photo stops and flexibility that a rickshaw or jeep could never provide. We finally arrived at the heart of the complex as large group of school children pulled up, suddenly the vast grounds were filled with young children all in their uniforms walking in long human chains around the ruins and sitting patiently under trees as their teachers explained their surroundings. The Elephant stables were by far the highlight, a long narrow building with 11 arches each one topped with a different dome. The building was originally used to house the state elephants.
After the ride back into Hampi (thankfully mostly down hill) we had a quick lunch before tackling the other major ruins site of Hampi. Marching along the river passing old gateways and numerous temples still being excavated to this day we reached the Vittala Temple and its famous stone chariot. From all the buildings I've seen in India these ruins reminded me most of those from Cambodia, with their the strict geometry and clear horizontal emphasis . The carvings and ornamentation was also similar.
The next two days were spent over the river (where 90% of the Israelis hang out) I was in search of falafel and hummus but Hampi was out of hummus. The humanity!
The other side of the river certainly does take chilling out to an entirely new level. The place were we had lunch didn't have chair, it didn't even have booths, instead it looked more like a blood bank, with mattresses laid out on either side of very low tables. For natural slouchers like myself it was the ultimate indulgence, but it was almost too easy to fall asleep mid-bite.
After my first lazy day of wandering around and getting my bearings of the small village and main bazaar it was time to do some more active travel.
Joining forces with a German backpacker Dorit, who I met on the train up from Bangalore we hired a couple of the usual crappy Indian bikes (gearless, brakeless and heavy) and headed up hill straight out of town in search of the ruins beyond.
Bike riding again, who would ever have conceived of such a thing (certainly not my PE teachers back at school). After a conquering the hills that flank the city we were soon cruising through rice, sugar cane and banana plantations. There neat rows interrupted by enormous smooth granite boulders, some as big as houses. After passing by a view Hindu temples and a Muslim cemetery which had 2 interesting mausoleums we headed towards the Royal Centre.
The Royal Centre has a brilliant concentration of ruins; watch towers, temples, fort walls...Our bikes proved to be a great mode of transport, despite the dirt roads, allowing for infinite photo stops and flexibility that a rickshaw or jeep could never provide. We finally arrived at the heart of the complex as large group of school children pulled up, suddenly the vast grounds were filled with young children all in their uniforms walking in long human chains around the ruins and sitting patiently under trees as their teachers explained their surroundings. The Elephant stables were by far the highlight, a long narrow building with 11 arches each one topped with a different dome. The building was originally used to house the state elephants.
After the ride back into Hampi (thankfully mostly down hill) we had a quick lunch before tackling the other major ruins site of Hampi. Marching along the river passing old gateways and numerous temples still being excavated to this day we reached the Vittala Temple and its famous stone chariot. From all the buildings I've seen in India these ruins reminded me most of those from Cambodia, with their the strict geometry and clear horizontal emphasis . The carvings and ornamentation was also similar.
The next two days were spent over the river (where 90% of the Israelis hang out) I was in search of falafel and hummus but Hampi was out of hummus. The humanity!
The other side of the river certainly does take chilling out to an entirely new level. The place were we had lunch didn't have chair, it didn't even have booths, instead it looked more like a blood bank, with mattresses laid out on either side of very low tables. For natural slouchers like myself it was the ultimate indulgence, but it was almost too easy to fall asleep mid-bite.
Thursday, February 09, 2006
The Oldest Synagogue in the Commonwealth
Well I almost forgot to mention:
When I was back in Fort Cochin Assaf and I decided to go to shule on Friday night. I got all dressed up (put on pants instead of shorts) and fished my kippa out of my backpack and we caught a rickshaw back to the heart of Jewtown. But this time there would actually be some Jews here!
We walked down the narrow alley that leads up to the synagogue and immediately there was a special feeling. The synagogue I had visited a week or so before didn't feel like a shule, it was more like a strange museum piece. But now on Friday night with the candelabras all lit and the sun setting the room look more like a shule then any I had ever been to. The transformation was unbelievable. After half an hour about 40 people had turned up, Israeli backpackers, English couples in their 60s, even a young married couple from Melbourne.
The service started, lead by the too locals, it was a mumbled and jumpy service, page numbers jumped back and forth and many (all) of the popular prayers were cut out in an effort to minimize the length of the service. It didn't matter though. Just being there, reciting the Amidah in the middle of India in a 400 year old shule was something special.
After the service the chazan opened the carved red and gold doors of the elaborate Arc and revealed the 4 Sphardic Sefer Torahs. He opened one of the Torahs and allowed us to approach to see the parchment one at a time.
When I was back in Fort Cochin Assaf and I decided to go to shule on Friday night. I got all dressed up (put on pants instead of shorts) and fished my kippa out of my backpack and we caught a rickshaw back to the heart of Jewtown. But this time there would actually be some Jews here!
We walked down the narrow alley that leads up to the synagogue and immediately there was a special feeling. The synagogue I had visited a week or so before didn't feel like a shule, it was more like a strange museum piece. But now on Friday night with the candelabras all lit and the sun setting the room look more like a shule then any I had ever been to. The transformation was unbelievable. After half an hour about 40 people had turned up, Israeli backpackers, English couples in their 60s, even a young married couple from Melbourne.
The service started, lead by the too locals, it was a mumbled and jumpy service, page numbers jumped back and forth and many (all) of the popular prayers were cut out in an effort to minimize the length of the service. It didn't matter though. Just being there, reciting the Amidah in the middle of India in a 400 year old shule was something special.
After the service the chazan opened the carved red and gold doors of the elaborate Arc and revealed the 4 Sphardic Sefer Torahs. He opened one of the Torahs and allowed us to approach to see the parchment one at a time.
Wednesday, February 08, 2006
Yabba Dabba Doo!
Hampi is a magical place unlike any other I have even seen or know of. The landscape is a bizarre rocky world of smooth round boulders and scattered remains of ancient Hindu temples.
From a distance the rocks look like they are straight from Bedrock, or from a Roadrunner cartoon, stacked up in unbelievable formations that look as though they must have been placed by man. Many boulders really seem to defy gravity as they hang in the air.
Mixed into this wonderful alien landscape are wonderful remains of temples and stoas and other buildings. The austere trabeated structures with chunky columns and beams and oversized capitals look early Greek. There random picturesque compositions adding to there 'acropolis' like appearance.
Whatever you make of the landscape it is amazing and it seems that every turn of the head demands another photo. Even the town centre is different to what I have seen before. A wide straight road that runs from one series of temples to anther 2km away. Sone columns form shopfronts that flank each side of the road. Towards one end they are in use as the bustling heart of Hampi, with money changers, resturants and icecreams stores, but towards the other they are abandoned allowing you to appreciate the strick rhythm and order of the architecture.
to be continued...
From a distance the rocks look like they are straight from Bedrock, or from a Roadrunner cartoon, stacked up in unbelievable formations that look as though they must have been placed by man. Many boulders really seem to defy gravity as they hang in the air.
Mixed into this wonderful alien landscape are wonderful remains of temples and stoas and other buildings. The austere trabeated structures with chunky columns and beams and oversized capitals look early Greek. There random picturesque compositions adding to there 'acropolis' like appearance.
Whatever you make of the landscape it is amazing and it seems that every turn of the head demands another photo. Even the town centre is different to what I have seen before. A wide straight road that runs from one series of temples to anther 2km away. Sone columns form shopfronts that flank each side of the road. Towards one end they are in use as the bustling heart of Hampi, with money changers, resturants and icecreams stores, but towards the other they are abandoned allowing you to appreciate the strick rhythm and order of the architecture.
to be continued...
48hrs with no shower? No thanks!
After spending my bonus days in Cochin with Adi and Assaf (the lost Israelis) it was time to head out of Kerala and board the sleeper train to Bangalore, the high tech modern city of India.
Arriving at 4:30 on Sunday morning the city was still fast asleep. My idea of just bumming around the city for 18hrs until my connecting train to Hampi fell through as I began walking the seedier parts of the city (the only parts awake). I decided to check myself into a quiet little hotel and finally found one that was open and had a vacancy. Soon I was catching up on some sleep, some news and enjoying a mch needed hot shower, (but I had to wait until 6:30 when they turn the boiler on).
By 9:30 it was time to hit the town again. Now the streets that were all boarded up had blossomed into markets and stalls selling everything the average Bangalorian would ever need and surely much more. But I headed away for the markets and straight for MG Road and the shopping, I was here on a mission, a mission to shop. Luckily for me the sales were on and 40-50% discounts slashed the already great prices. Very soon I had bought more clothes than I could hold and as I began to consider where these purchases would actually fit in my backpack I headed to one of Bangalores more trendy outdoor coffee houses to spend time with the beautiful people.
After another shower and a short siesta it was time to check out and head back to the train station. In the morning when I left the station concourse was covered in a thick layer of bodies lying across the stone floor, some had old blankets, others only a few sheets of newspaper. As the lone security guard prodded the reluctant masses with a stick it was clear that his job was not going to be easy. When I returned that evening the picture was pretty much the same. Bodies everywhere, throbbing crowds and the most pushy touchy smelly people i have yet to come across.
As I passed through the concourse and onto my platform some engineering students started talking with me, soon the group of 3 turned to 5, then 12, 15, 18 and before I knew it 22 men where swarming around me asking me who my favorite Indian cricketer was, I dont even have a favorite Australian cricketer, but before I had to give an answer the crowd began asking the questions all young horny Indian males ask, sex quetions. The already uncomfortable situation took an expected turn for the worst and I looked to for chance to get out of there.
Soon I was back on board the now familiar surrounds of the sleeper cabin. The next morning I would be in Hampi.
Arriving at 4:30 on Sunday morning the city was still fast asleep. My idea of just bumming around the city for 18hrs until my connecting train to Hampi fell through as I began walking the seedier parts of the city (the only parts awake). I decided to check myself into a quiet little hotel and finally found one that was open and had a vacancy. Soon I was catching up on some sleep, some news and enjoying a mch needed hot shower, (but I had to wait until 6:30 when they turn the boiler on).
By 9:30 it was time to hit the town again. Now the streets that were all boarded up had blossomed into markets and stalls selling everything the average Bangalorian would ever need and surely much more. But I headed away for the markets and straight for MG Road and the shopping, I was here on a mission, a mission to shop. Luckily for me the sales were on and 40-50% discounts slashed the already great prices. Very soon I had bought more clothes than I could hold and as I began to consider where these purchases would actually fit in my backpack I headed to one of Bangalores more trendy outdoor coffee houses to spend time with the beautiful people.
After another shower and a short siesta it was time to check out and head back to the train station. In the morning when I left the station concourse was covered in a thick layer of bodies lying across the stone floor, some had old blankets, others only a few sheets of newspaper. As the lone security guard prodded the reluctant masses with a stick it was clear that his job was not going to be easy. When I returned that evening the picture was pretty much the same. Bodies everywhere, throbbing crowds and the most pushy touchy smelly people i have yet to come across.
As I passed through the concourse and onto my platform some engineering students started talking with me, soon the group of 3 turned to 5, then 12, 15, 18 and before I knew it 22 men where swarming around me asking me who my favorite Indian cricketer was, I dont even have a favorite Australian cricketer, but before I had to give an answer the crowd began asking the questions all young horny Indian males ask, sex quetions. The already uncomfortable situation took an expected turn for the worst and I looked to for chance to get out of there.
Soon I was back on board the now familiar surrounds of the sleeper cabin. The next morning I would be in Hampi.
Friday, February 03, 2006
Don't Fall Asleep
After two fun filled days at Periyar it was time to get back on the road and head north. First stop Cochin to by tickets to Hampi, but is was not so straight forward.
Getting from Kumily-Periyar to Cochin is an epic in itself, a mini epic, but one full of ups and downs.
...to be continued
As my first solo bus trip I was keen to get to the station nice and early, and as such I had pick of all the seats in the bus. Naturally I wanted to go up front to enjoy the view and reduce the bumps. Good theory, but total failure in reality
Points to consider:
- BO of bus driver
- Constant use of extremely loud horn that seems to to aimed in your ear
- The poster of the Virgin Mary sticky taped to the back of the drivers chair that stares at you the whole trip.
For the next bus ride I decided to go to the very back of the bus, already forgetting the rollercoaster ride that the munnar-kumily trip was. As usual for the first 5 minutes the bus is more or less empty, but slowly but surely the bus fills and is soon overflowing. As I fought to stay awake, the guy next to me lost his personal battle and rested his head on my shoulder, I wasnt to bothered, but when we went over a very large pothole his head slammed back down on my shoulder. I was sure he would have been woken up by such a thud, but hejust stayed sleeping. Amazing.
I finally got into Ernakulam/Cochin at 4 and bought my ticket to Bangalore before heading back to Fort Cochin in search of accommodation and the lost Israelis.
Getting from Kumily-Periyar to Cochin is an epic in itself, a mini epic, but one full of ups and downs.
...to be continued
As my first solo bus trip I was keen to get to the station nice and early, and as such I had pick of all the seats in the bus. Naturally I wanted to go up front to enjoy the view and reduce the bumps. Good theory, but total failure in reality
Points to consider:
- BO of bus driver
- Constant use of extremely loud horn that seems to to aimed in your ear
- The poster of the Virgin Mary sticky taped to the back of the drivers chair that stares at you the whole trip.
For the next bus ride I decided to go to the very back of the bus, already forgetting the rollercoaster ride that the munnar-kumily trip was. As usual for the first 5 minutes the bus is more or less empty, but slowly but surely the bus fills and is soon overflowing. As I fought to stay awake, the guy next to me lost his personal battle and rested his head on my shoulder, I wasnt to bothered, but when we went over a very large pothole his head slammed back down on my shoulder. I was sure he would have been woken up by such a thud, but hejust stayed sleeping. Amazing.
I finally got into Ernakulam/Cochin at 4 and bought my ticket to Bangalore before heading back to Fort Cochin in search of accommodation and the lost Israelis.
Periyar Uncovered - Part II
Once our leafs were licked clean is we headed down out of the scrub and into a area full of giant bamboo trees and streams. After cursing my way up the mountain I was now cursing all the way down. A few near slips had shaken me up and I was in no hurry to fall over in his part of the world. The path was little more than a trail of broken branches and trodden ground and gave very little in terms of grip.
At the bottom the landscape changed again, the fog had cleared and the bamboo was now a dense jungle. Overhead at the top of the canopy the guide pointed out a hornbill, a very large colourful bird with a great big beak and a bright yellow strip across its wings. He also pointed out a tiger foot print and a tree that had been clawed by a tiger as a means of claiming territory.
After hiking up and subsequently down another few hills I decided that this was probably the toughest hike I had ever done, not only physically strenuous with steep climbs and accents, but the constant lookout for giant spiders and bugs, sharp grass and other obstacles.
Although we did manage to spot some other animals, a monkey high up in an enormous tree, a wild squirrel who ran at the very sight of us and a few others the big game alluded us. By 12.30pm we were beat, but our guide wasn't finished. He continued on his route up another mountain to a clearing which had great views over the lake and then onto another cliff that overlooked the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu. Before too much longer in the hot and humid midday sun we stumbled out of the forest, across the cricket field, now bright and green in the heat of the day and headed home.
CONC.:This trek was technically illegal and not run through official park tourist personnel. Part of our charge included a bribe to a shady park officer. Besides from that the tour was run as professionally a can be expected, with breakfast, lunch, transport and 2 guides provided.
At the bottom the landscape changed again, the fog had cleared and the bamboo was now a dense jungle. Overhead at the top of the canopy the guide pointed out a hornbill, a very large colourful bird with a great big beak and a bright yellow strip across its wings. He also pointed out a tiger foot print and a tree that had been clawed by a tiger as a means of claiming territory.
After hiking up and subsequently down another few hills I decided that this was probably the toughest hike I had ever done, not only physically strenuous with steep climbs and accents, but the constant lookout for giant spiders and bugs, sharp grass and other obstacles.
Although we did manage to spot some other animals, a monkey high up in an enormous tree, a wild squirrel who ran at the very sight of us and a few others the big game alluded us. By 12.30pm we were beat, but our guide wasn't finished. He continued on his route up another mountain to a clearing which had great views over the lake and then onto another cliff that overlooked the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu. Before too much longer in the hot and humid midday sun we stumbled out of the forest, across the cricket field, now bright and green in the heat of the day and headed home.
CONC.:This trek was technically illegal and not run through official park tourist personnel. Part of our charge included a bribe to a shady park officer. Besides from that the tour was run as professionally a can be expected, with breakfast, lunch, transport and 2 guides provided.
Thursday, February 02, 2006
Periyar Uncovered
Wwell after the successes of our budget wildlife hunt the kevutsa (Nadav, Udi, Ravid and his friend Erran and I) hit the town (all one resturant still open after 8pm). Coffee Inn, a potentially nice place except for the lazy morons that run the joint. We sat there for 20 minutes until we realised that we just weren't going to be served. Udi knew another place just down the road and soon we were huddled around a small table on the side of the road pouring over menus. I ordered a dalh fry, veg noodles and rice, i guess the bike ride had really made me hungry, that and the fact that is was close to 10pm.
After a little wait in the cool mountain air we eventually received our food one dish at a time. It was probably during this meal that I first heard Israelis talk politics, almost the goldern rule here is to leave those issues at the airport, but for 5 minutes I heard young Israelis talk about their country. Udi however had more important things to discuss.
That afternoon he was speaking with a guy at his dorm and was told about the illegal treks that go through the park. Immediately we were all interested, not only would this be a cheaper way to see the animals, it had a very appealing element of risk, not just the tigers were out there, we had to look out for the rangers too.
It was settled then and there, at 5:30 the next morning we would all meet near our hotel and be picked up and taken on the trek.
After a restless sleep we all converged to the small tour office cloaked in darkness. Before too long we were huddled into rickshaws and taken to the unoffical entrance to the park. No guarded gateway or signin office. We matched accross a cricket pitch and stumbled into the forest lead only by the weak glow of the 2 guides torches as they tried to illuminate the scrub path.
Walking single file in silence in the pitch black forest your mind plays tricks. With nothing so see images appear totally randomly, a phone booth, a brick veneer house, an umbrella. Soon the darkness was replaced by the first light which, although silent itself, must seem like a shot gun to the hundreds of birds who begin their morning calls in unison. At once the forest comes alive in song and squak in all 360 degrees.
As the light increase we began our asent to the top of the first mountain, totally engulfed in a thick fog the talls trees made way for grass and shrubs. There was some noise in the bushes nearby and everyone came to an abrupt halt, cameras at the ready. Through the fog two bison were grazing but quickly fled after noticing our presence. We continued our hike upward.
At the top there was a rocky outcrop were we sat surrounded by fog. By this stage we were all puffed and tired. It was only 45minutes in and I was already ready for bed. After a bannana we step off again, down another valley and across to another hill top where we settled for breakfast. Chapati served on freshly cut bananna leaf.
After a little wait in the cool mountain air we eventually received our food one dish at a time. It was probably during this meal that I first heard Israelis talk politics, almost the goldern rule here is to leave those issues at the airport, but for 5 minutes I heard young Israelis talk about their country. Udi however had more important things to discuss.
That afternoon he was speaking with a guy at his dorm and was told about the illegal treks that go through the park. Immediately we were all interested, not only would this be a cheaper way to see the animals, it had a very appealing element of risk, not just the tigers were out there, we had to look out for the rangers too.
It was settled then and there, at 5:30 the next morning we would all meet near our hotel and be picked up and taken on the trek.
After a restless sleep we all converged to the small tour office cloaked in darkness. Before too long we were huddled into rickshaws and taken to the unoffical entrance to the park. No guarded gateway or signin office. We matched accross a cricket pitch and stumbled into the forest lead only by the weak glow of the 2 guides torches as they tried to illuminate the scrub path.
Walking single file in silence in the pitch black forest your mind plays tricks. With nothing so see images appear totally randomly, a phone booth, a brick veneer house, an umbrella. Soon the darkness was replaced by the first light which, although silent itself, must seem like a shot gun to the hundreds of birds who begin their morning calls in unison. At once the forest comes alive in song and squak in all 360 degrees.
As the light increase we began our asent to the top of the first mountain, totally engulfed in a thick fog the talls trees made way for grass and shrubs. There was some noise in the bushes nearby and everyone came to an abrupt halt, cameras at the ready. Through the fog two bison were grazing but quickly fled after noticing our presence. We continued our hike upward.
At the top there was a rocky outcrop were we sat surrounded by fog. By this stage we were all puffed and tired. It was only 45minutes in and I was already ready for bed. After a bannana we step off again, down another valley and across to another hill top where we settled for breakfast. Chapati served on freshly cut bananna leaf.
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
I'd want to ride my bicycle Part II: Hey Hey We're the Monkeeys
After getting in to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary it is a matter of sitting down, looking at the options and getting totally confused. The park can be tackled in several different ways, each one has its perks, but the better they are, the more expensive the price tag. You can take boats, big or small, rafts, jeeps, trek, basically there are options galore but no guarantees that you will spot an elephant, let alone a tiger (almost impossible). We (Ravid Udi and Myself) elected to do the budget option on the first day and see what happened.
Hiring bikes just like the one I had up in Udaipur we headed down the road and entered the park for 300Rs. There is a long winding road from the park entry gate to the boat jetty and main ticket office which is a nice ride (although a bit hilly for these gearless bikes). Once inside we arranged to ride the government boats for 2hrs at a time for 15Rs (compared to the 'private' boats that are 100Rs), and we figured since we had already paid admission and the rides were only 15Rs (50 cents AUD) we could do it twice.
On the first outing, 2pm, we spotted deer, some stags, birds, black monkeys and a couple of elephants. People go crazy as soon as elephants are spotted, so much so that the small boat almost capsizes as everyone onboard clambers to on side of the boat to get a better look. Although we were a little far from the action the boat proved to be a really good and economical way to see the park with as little effort and minimum time. On the next trip, 4pm more animals were out and about, our animal spotting skills had also improved drastically and we were treated to herds of deer and buffalo, monkeys swinging through the trees, but alas the elephants were scared away by a bigger boat.
With the melody of Born Free ringing in my head (sad and corny I know) the second boat ride can to a close and it was time to hop back on the bikes and head back into town. As all the tourist buses and taxis sped past we spotted a family of monkeys in the trees by the road. THe soundtrack in my mind quickly changed to Hey Hey We're the Monkeeys as we grabbed or cameras and started shooting, but before we got a chance to get too close a park rangers car pulled up and kept us moving (park closes at 6pm sharp). As we approached the gates Ravids tire got a puncture, never a dull moment in this place, he though that he would be able to keep riding on the flat but luckily there was a rickshore nearby and he got a lift to the bike shop.
Hiring bikes just like the one I had up in Udaipur we headed down the road and entered the park for 300Rs. There is a long winding road from the park entry gate to the boat jetty and main ticket office which is a nice ride (although a bit hilly for these gearless bikes). Once inside we arranged to ride the government boats for 2hrs at a time for 15Rs (compared to the 'private' boats that are 100Rs), and we figured since we had already paid admission and the rides were only 15Rs (50 cents AUD) we could do it twice.
On the first outing, 2pm, we spotted deer, some stags, birds, black monkeys and a couple of elephants. People go crazy as soon as elephants are spotted, so much so that the small boat almost capsizes as everyone onboard clambers to on side of the boat to get a better look. Although we were a little far from the action the boat proved to be a really good and economical way to see the park with as little effort and minimum time. On the next trip, 4pm more animals were out and about, our animal spotting skills had also improved drastically and we were treated to herds of deer and buffalo, monkeys swinging through the trees, but alas the elephants were scared away by a bigger boat.
With the melody of Born Free ringing in my head (sad and corny I know) the second boat ride can to a close and it was time to hop back on the bikes and head back into town. As all the tourist buses and taxis sped past we spotted a family of monkeys in the trees by the road. THe soundtrack in my mind quickly changed to Hey Hey We're the Monkeeys as we grabbed or cameras and started shooting, but before we got a chance to get too close a park rangers car pulled up and kept us moving (park closes at 6pm sharp). As we approached the gates Ravids tire got a puncture, never a dull moment in this place, he though that he would be able to keep riding on the flat but luckily there was a rickshore nearby and he got a lift to the bike shop.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)